Lindisfarne, Thin Places and Celtic Spirituality

On Wednesday the college organised a quiet day for us on Lindisfarne, also known as Holy Island.  It’s taken me a couple of days to process the experience and to write something that hopefully will make some kind of sense.

I’d visited Lindisfarne many, many years ago on a family holiday and the main thing I remember from that occasion was that it was a long walk to the castle from the main car park on my relatively short 12 year old legs.  I don’t think there was a shuttle bus to the castle in those days!  I don’t remember much else, other than nearly being caught by the tide on the way back!

Studying theology and ministry in Durham has inevitably brought about an encounter with Celtic Christian spirituality.  Relatively new to me it is something I have embraced over the past few months because I feel that in many ways the Celtic Church was closer to the first Christians in terms of faith and life than were are today.  I get a lot out of both ancient and modern Celtic Christian hymns and prayers and O love the idea of ‘thin places’; physical locations where it seems to be possible to feel very close to God.

So I arrived on Lindisfarne full of anticipation of the day ahead and was not disappointed.  Immediately after I dismounted from the coach I felt the almost tangible presence of God’s Spirit.  The Holy Spirit permeates the island in the same way that he/she does some Cathedrals and churches.   It sounds like a cliché but Lindisfarne does feel holy in a very real way.

After a mug of coffee and a short prayer service we were encouraged to do our own thing, to use the time available for personal prayer and reflection.  This was some thing I was very keen to do; but first I wanted a taste of another big aspect of Celtic Christianity: hospitality!  Another student and I decided to go for lunch together in one of the local hostelries before going off on our own.  We received a warm welcome from the landlord and enjoy a delicious meal of fish, chips and peas washed down with a pint of the local real ale.  It was the freshest fish I have eaten in a long time with light golden batter and the chips were perfect, crispy on the outside and fluffy within.  The beer was excellent, malty and full of flavour!

After lunch I walked across the sands to Cuthbert’s Island, which is on the South East tip of Holy Island near St Mary’s church and accessible when the tide is out.  I stood in the remains of Cuthbert’s stone shack and thought how that dedicated man of God had spent hours isolated on that island with only the Scriptures and God for company.  Like many of the saints the example of his life and dedication to God is both inspiring and humbling.  Standing on the highest rocky outcrop of that island, with the sun in my face and the wind at my back I dedicated myself again to God and to his calling on my life and received his loving assurance that he is with me every step of the way.

There was more exploration of the island including a delightful half hour in the harbour looking at the boats and lobster pots and reflecting on a simple and honest way of life that is slowly disappearing.  Some aspects of modern life are, of course, much better, but I wonder if we have lost something in loosing our connections with the natural world and the simplicity of good honest living as we walk with our God.

The day ended with a service that was supposed to be on the beach but ended up being in the church due to the almost inevitable rainfall.  The service was very moving and a time of great blessing; especially the fish finger sandwiches we finished off with.

I will return to Lindisfarne again; perhaps in company or perhaps alone on retreat but I will take something of the place with me where ever I go and I think that the Celtic Christianity which formed the community there centuries ago and remains to this day will continue to be an important aspect of my own faith journey.